On Leipzig
So many questions... Penned 2.4.08
The city of Göthe's Faust, the book and trade fairs, not to mention where Napoleon, the emperor the French hold as the symbol of their power finally lost to the Russians and Prussians.
Her streets are wide, her old houses beautiful. The trams roll up and down the main roads, while the side ones sit conjoined looking on.
I wonder what I would hear if bricks and stones could talk. Although they don't all go back 200 years ago, the granite slabs in the pavements have seen so many feet step on them, while the houses have seen builders, occupants, defenders, destroyers, bombs, occupiers, neglect, renovation and new occupants. Of the last 70 years, only 20 have let Leipzig improve, while the others stifled and ruined her and her people.
So far, all I have done is to be an eyewitness of today's Leipzig for a short period of time. She is indeed “not finished”, as my sister-in-law put it to me. Yet, there is much to be discovered by this humble passerby in a city of much history. Whether I will live here 3 or 30 years, my impact will be a small part of the lives and times of the city.
I do wonder at how it might have been 200 years ago here, with its bustling fairs and university. The brain power that stormed through here then was amazing, even if it saw war then. What happened to the people of this city when the Nazis and the Communists clashed to take hold of Germany's reins? Did the Leipzigers also shiver in fear when ally bombs fell, whether from the west of east? Did they celebrate the end of the 2nd world war, and then wake up to what I always think of a grey and dreary GDR? How did they cope with Stasi agents and lack of plentiful food? When did they decide to not repair their houses? How did they feel when their Monday protests finally bore fruit and took Soviet hold off GDR? How did they feel about their richer cousins in the west? How do they feel now when a whole multi-cultural society has sprouted and many westerners are investing in their town? Are they still leaving here in droves? Will the ones who left return?
Oh, so much I would like to know, but this is just the beginning of my life here, so bear with me.
Good things so far. Penned 7.4.08
Not pretending to know much about this city, but she is fine. Public transport aplenty, it runs 24 hours, and the trams are quick and frequent. Wow, what a relief this is. Although, we won't need it much as we can WALK to the centre in around 10 minutes.
To my relief, there are plenty of things to do other than shopping. When baby comes, she's too little for a zoo, but it's within walking distance, so she can enjoy seeing the animals a little later on. Although in principle I don't feel good about seeing giraffes outside of Africa, and have never willingly gone to zoos, I feel maybe I should give baby a chance to decide if she likes animals. I'm used them mostly on TV, and had a couple of pet cats...
Anyhow, the city has some museums, old churches and other heritage that I can get to know. This is good news. I already visited the two big central churches, Nikolai & Thomas. Their decors and so on are pretty good, and some rich history. Seeing Bach's grave in Thomas Kirche is something. However, I can't actually tell which division of Christianity these might belong to. I guess something else for my long Wikipedia list!
I now need to find a public library or two, so I can have my supply of reading material for the coming months, and make sure my German improves. So far, in a month that I've been in the country, it has improved, but starting on a low speaking basis. Understanding is always easier and comes first.
p.s. It awoke my senses and saddened me at the same time as I walked past Leipzig Tafel. Yes, we must help poor people, but heck I hadn't seen this sort of thing before. I shall have to reflect and respond to this later...
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